Wild Voices of the Oregon Coast: A Visit to Simpson Reef, Cape Arago Highway
Driving down the Cape Arago Highway in southern Oregon is a slow unwinding from the noise of the modern world. The road hugs the coastline just southwest of Coos Bay, winding through forested state parks, huge cliffs, and thick coastal mist. If you’re not paying close attention, you might miss one of the most incredible pull-offs on the entire Oregon Coast: Simpson Reef Overlook. There's no flashy sign, no paved visitor center, and no gimmick. Just a simple turnout with a few interpretive signs and one of the loudest, wildest natural spectacles you’ll ever experience.
The overlook provides a clear, elevated view of Simpson Reef and the nearby Shell Island. These offshore rocks are part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which means they’re protected from human interference. That protection has allowed a staggering number of marine mammals to call this place home—or at least a seasonal getaway. Depending on the time of year, you might see California sea lions, Steller sea lions, harbor seals, and northern elephant seals all sharing the same rocky real estate. Some lounge like sunbathers on vacation; others squabble over space, bellowing and bumping each other off prime spots. In winter, elephant seals arrive to breed, and their size and deep vocalizations are an absolute enjoyment.
You’ll need binoculars or a decent zoom lens if you want to get a closer look at the details, but even with the naked eye, you can make out the constantly shifting shapes of animals on the rocks. Occasionally, if you’re lucky and watching the water closely, you might even spot a spout from a migrating gray whale as it surfaces on its long journey up or down the Pacific Coast. In the air, gulls, cormorants, and other seabirds drift on the wind or dive for fish.
What makes Simpson Reef so special is It’s part of a stretch of coast that includes three stunning state parks: Sunset Bay, Shore Acres, and Cape Arago. If you have time, you can hike part of the Oregon Coast Trail that links all three, winding through forest, past dramatic viewpoints, and into the beautifully maintained botanical gardens at Shore Acres. These gardens are a surprise in their own right—a legacy of the early 20th-century estate once owned by timber baron Louis Simpson, for whom the reef is named.
The trail from Sunset Bay to Simpson Reef is about 8.5 miles round-trip and offers glimpses of cliffs, hidden beaches, sea stacks, and thick, mossy forest. It’s not a technical hike—it’s more of a long walk with plenty of opportunities to pause, photograph, or just take in the views. Along the way, Norton Gulch and Simpson Beach offer quieter, lesser-known corners of the coast. These little coves are perfect for picnics or tide-pooling during low tide.
If you go, bring a few essentials: binoculars, a camera, comfortable walking shoes, and layers. The coast can be chilly and foggy even in summer, and weather conditions can change fast. Morning and late afternoon tend to be the best times for both wildlife activity and good light for photography. Remember, this is a wildlife refuge, so don’t try to get close to the animals or disturb them in any way—enjoy them from the overlook, and let the natural drama unfold on its own terms.
There are no facilities at the Simpson Reef Overlook itself, so plan ahead. Restrooms and picnic areas can be found at nearby Sunset Bay State Park. And if you’re looking for a place to stay overnight, the towns of Charleston and Coos Bay have a range of accommodations, from cozy inns to coastal campgrounds.
In a world full of curated experiences and crowded attractions, Simpson Reef is a reminder that some of the most incredible travel moments happen in places that aren’t flashy or heavily promoted. It’s just a pull-off on a quiet coastal highway. But what you’ll find when you stop there—thousands of wild animals, roaring waves, sea mist in your hair, and the feeling of being a guest in something much bigger than yourself—will stay with you long after you leave.
If you’re traveling the Oregon Coast, don’t miss this spot. Simpson Reef is wild Oregon, pure and simple.
