Cold Rain, Crab Pots and Full Coolers: Late-Fall Crabbing on Oregon’s Alsea Bay
Late November on the Oregon Coast isn't exactly postcard weather.
The rain can come sideways. The docks are slick. Your fingers get cold handling wet rope, and there's a pretty good chance you'll end up smelling like bait before the day is over.
Sounds perfect to me.
Because while a lot of travelers have already packed away their coastal gear for winter, late fall can be an exciting time to go Dungeness crabbing in Oregon's coastal bays.
And one of my favorite places for the adventure is Alsea Bay in Waldport.
There's something about dropping a crab pot into dark November water, watching rain move across the bay and waiting to see what's crawling around inside when you pull it back up.
It's simple.
It's messy.
And it's ridiculously fun.
Welcome to November on Alsea Bay
Waldport doesn't have the frantic energy of some larger Oregon Coast towns.
That's part of its charm.
The Alsea River meets the Pacific here beneath the impressive Alsea Bay Bridge, creating a broad estuary surrounded by forested hills.
In summer, the area can be busy with travelers.
Come back in late fall and everything changes.
The mornings are darker. Fog hangs over the water. Rainstorms sweep across the bay, and the docks feel considerably quieter.
But underneath the surface, Dungeness crab are still crawling across the bottom.
That's what I'm after.
Dropping the First Pot
There's always something exciting about that first drop.
You've got your crab pot or ring ready.
The bait is secured.
The rope is coiled.
Then over the side it goes.
Splash.
The rope starts disappearing through your hands until the gear finally reaches the bottom.
Now comes the difficult part.
Waiting.
I'll usually spend that time watching the bay.
Maybe a harbor seal pops its head above the surface.
A great blue heron works the shoreline.
Fishing boats pass beneath the bridge.
Then eventually I start looking at that rope again.
Time to see who's downstairs.
The Best Part Is Pulling It Up
If you've never pulled a crab pot before, you're missing out on one of the simplest thrills on the Oregon Coast.
You start hauling.
Hand over hand.
At first, you're just pulling rope.
Then you begin feeling the weight.
That's when everybody starts getting excited.
The pot breaks the surface and suddenly you can see legs moving everywhere.
Crab!
Maybe you've got two.
Maybe six.
Maybe you've somehow managed to catch every undersized crab in Alsea Bay.
That's part of the game.
You sort through your catch carefully, identify the crab correctly and measure each one according to current Oregon regulations.
Legal keepers go into the cooler.
Everything else goes back into the bay.
Then you rebait and do it again.
Why Late Fall?
There's an old coastal saying about crabbing being good during months containing the letter "R."
Reality is more complicated than an old saying, but there's a reason fall gets crabbers excited.
As the season progresses, Dungeness crab can fill out after molting, and the cooler months have long been popular with recreational crabbers.
Late fall also brings something else I appreciate:
Fewer people.
Instead of fighting summer traffic and packed parking lots, you might find yourself standing beside Alsea Bay on a gray November morning with plenty of breathing room.
Give me waterproof bibs, hot coffee and an uncrowded dock and I'm perfectly happy.
Make It a Competition
Crabbing gets even better when you're doing it with friends or family.
Suddenly everybody becomes competitive.
Who caught the biggest crab?
Who pulled the fullest pot?
Who keeps catching females that have to go back?
Who somehow managed to catch nothing but seaweed?
Kids especially seem to love the mystery.
You never know what's going to be inside when the gear comes up.
Sometimes you'll even pull up something completely unexpected.
That's half the fun.
Cook Them Fresh
This is where the adventure gets really good.
There's seafood from a grocery store.
And then there's seafood you pulled from an Oregon bay yourself a few hours earlier.
Fresh Dungeness crab doesn't need much.
Cook it properly, crack the shells and get to work.
Soon the table is covered in shells, everybody's fingers are messy and conversation slows down because people are too busy digging out crab meat.
Add melted butter if that's your thing.
Personally, freshly cooked Dungeness crab is good enough that it doesn't need much help.
Turn Waldport Into a Weekend Adventure
I wouldn't drive to Waldport, crab for two hours and immediately leave.
Make a weekend out of it.
Explore the shoreline around Alsea Bay.
Drive south toward Yachats.
Head north toward Seal Rock.
Watch the late-fall surf from a safe viewpoint.
Grab some chowder.
Find a cozy motel or rental and listen to November rain hammer the roof at night.
Then wake up the next morning and check the bay again.
That's my kind of Oregon Coast weekend.
Don't Forget the Rules
Before throwing anything into the water, check the current Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife regulations.
You'll need to know current licensing requirements, legal size, sex restrictions, daily limits and any temporary closures or health advisories that may be in effect.
Bring a proper crab gauge and know how to identify your catch before keeping anything.
Also pay attention to tides and weather.
Late-fall storms can arrive quickly, and conditions around bays, docks and especially bay entrances can become dangerous.
No crab is worth taking a stupid risk for.
Rain Makes It Better
People sometimes ask when the best weather is for visiting the Oregon Coast.
I'm not convinced there is such a thing.
November rain is part of the experience.
Put on waterproof gear.
Bring gloves.
Fill a thermos with coffee.
Accept the fact that you're probably getting wet.
Because when that crab pot finally breaks the surface loaded with Dungeness, you're not going to care that it's raining.
You're going to be staring into the pot trying to figure out which one is the biggest.
And that's why late-fall crabbing on Alsea Bay deserves a spot on the Oregon Coast adventure list.
