Riding the Breaks: A Surfer’s Guide to Pacific City, Oregon

That first glimpse of Cape Kiwanda’s golden sandstone cliffs catching the morning sun, the smell of salt and fresh-brewed coffee drifting down from Stimulus Café, and the constant, low rumble of the Pacific beyond Haystack Rock — that’s the moment you know you’re in for a good day. This isn’t a polished, postcard-perfect California lineup. Pacific City is raw. It’s cold. It’s moody. And it’s one of the most consistently surfable spots on the Oregon Coast.

The Waves

Cape Kiwanda is the crown jewel. It’s a beach break with just enough reef influence to keep things interesting — a spot that can deliver clean, peeling rights one day and dumpy closeouts the next. When a west swell meets an east wind, the sets line up like corduroy across the water. And when it happens at sunrise? Unreal.

A short drive north brings you to Tierra Del Mar. This stretch is a little more forgiving and way less crowded, which is great if you’re newer to the sport or just want a session without battling for position. You’ll still find plenty of fun peaks along the sand.

For something mellower, head south to Neskowin Beach. It’s a long, quiet stretch with playful waves that won’t throw you into a spin cycle. This is where I go if I want to surf without anyone watching me wipe out.

Best Time to Surf Pacific City

You can find waves here year-round, but some seasons shine brighter than others.

• Fall (September–November) — The sweet spot. Summer crowds thin out, water temperatures are at their warmest (mid-50s°F), and steady west swells roll in. Offshore east winds are more common, grooming the waves into perfection.
  
  
• Winter (December–February) — Big-wave season. Heavy northwest swells bring the most powerful surf of the year, often double-overhead or bigger. The water is cold (low 50s°F), winds can be gnarly, and storms are frequent — best for experienced surfers who know how to handle Oregon’s raw power.
  
  
• Spring (March–May) — A mixed bag. Swells can still be solid, but wind and rain are unpredictable. When conditions line up, you can score incredible, crowd-free sessions.
  
  
• Summer (June–August) — Smaller swells and more onshore winds, but still fun on a longboard or SUP. Mornings are your friend before the wind kicks in. Bonus: you can surf in just a 4/3 with no hood if you don’t mind a little chill.
  
  

Pro Tip: Mornings — especially in fall — are your best bet for clean, glassy conditions before the daily northwest winds pick up.

Local Rhythm

Pacific City is one of those towns where life still revolves around the ocean. The fishing boats head out at dawn, the dorymen launch right off the beach, and the surfers are already in the water before most of the town has had breakfast.

Weekends can draw a crowd — especially when Portland surfers make the drive — but the vibe stays friendly as long as you respect the lineup. Dawn patrol here is sacred. The water’s usually glassy, the beach almost empty, and the only sounds are your paddle strokes and the hiss of breaking waves.

Surf Rentals & Gear

Cold-water surfing isn’t for the weak minded — the Pacific here stays in the low 50s most of the year — so having the right gear is essential.

Moment Surf Company is the go-to shop in Pacific City. They rent everything you need:

• Surfboards (shortboards, funboards, and longboards)
  
  
• SUPs for calmer days
  
  
• Wetsuits (4/3 or thicker recommended year-round)
  
  
• Boots, gloves, and hoods for winter sessions
  
  

They’ll also give you up-to-the-minute conditions and local advice, which is worth more than gold on the Oregon Coast.

If you’re staying at Headlands Coastal Lodge & Spa or Inn at Cape Kiwanda, you’re steps from Moment Surf and can literally rent a board, walk across the street, and be in the water in minutes.

Post-Surf Eats

After a few hours in 50-degree water, eating is no longer optional — it’s mission-critical.

• Stimulus Coffee + Bakery — The ultimate post-dawn-patrol pit stop. Their breakfast burrito will change your life, and the cinnamon rolls? Dangerous.
  
  
• Pelican Brewing Company — Oceanfront, laid-back, and serving beer brewed just steps from the sand. Grab a pint of Kiwanda Cream Ale, a plate of fish & chips, and watch the afternoon sets roll in.
  
  
• Ben & Jeff’s Burgers and Tacos — Big burgers, loaded fish tacos, and zero pretense. Perfect for a quick refuel between sessions.
  
  
• Meridian Restaurant — For the night you want something nicer, Meridian serves up creative coastal cuisine with sweeping views of the break you surfed earlier.
  
  
• Doryland Pizza — A no-frills favorite for big pies and cold drinks after a long day in the water.

Safety Tips & Surf Etiquette at Cape Kiwanda

Surfing here is incredible — but the Oregon Coast is no joke. Conditions change fast, currents are strong, and winter swells can be downright dangerous. Here’s what every visiting surfer should know:

Safety First

• Know the rip currents — Cape Kiwanda often has strong, shifting rips near the rock and at the north end of the beach. Identify them before paddling out.
  
  
• Respect the cold — A 4/3 wetsuit is the minimum year-round, with boots, gloves, and a hood in winter. Hypothermia is real here.
  
  
• Watch for boats — Dory boats launch straight from the beach. Stay clear of their path when paddling out.
  
  
• Don’t underestimate the shore break — The waves can dump hard right on the sand; it’s not the place for casual swimming.
  
  

Surf Etiquette

• Don’t drop in — The surfer closest to the peak has priority. Always look before taking off.
  
  
• Wait your turn — This is a small-town lineup; people notice if you paddle out and hog waves.
  
  
• Paddle wide — Avoid paddling straight through the peak when heading back out.
  
  
• Smile and say hi — A friendly nod or “morning” goes a long way with locals.
  
  

A Surfer’s Perfect Day in Pacific City

6:30 a.m. — Wake up, check the tide, grab your wetsuit, and jog across the sand to Cape Kiwanda before the wind picks up.
9:30 a.m. — Warm up with coffee and a pastry from Stimulus.
11:00 a.m. — Paddle out again at Tierra Del Mar for some easier peaks and fewer surfers.
1:00 p.m. — Lunch at Ben & Jeff’s.
3:00 p.m. — Either hike Cape Kiwanda’s massive dunes or just post up on the bluff and watch the sets.
Sunset — Beers and fish tacos at Pelican Brewing, toes still sandy, hair still salty.

Why Pacific City Belongs on Your Surf Map

• Consistency: One of the most reliable breaks on the Oregon Coast.
  
  
• Scenery: Surfing with Cape Kiwanda and Haystack Rock as your backdrop is unreal.
  
  
• Laid-back vibe: No big-city chaos, just waves, dunes, and locals who love both.
  
  
• Good eats: Everything from hearty burritos to refined seafood — all within walking distance of the beach.

When you leave you’ll still have sand in your ears and salt in your hair, and you’ll already be plotting your next trip back.

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